We went to Rome in January and stayed at a hotel around the corner from Campo de' Fiori, so after dropping off our bags, famished, we waited in line for Forno to open up after their lunch break. That first bite of their tomato slice was the most satisfying bite of the entire trip! By the end of the trip we had definitely perfected the "pretend you're eating while standing over the kitchen sink" stance to avoid any tomato mishaps!
I too love reading about your trips, and seeing the photos. We visited Rome in September of 2018 and stayed in an airbnb in Trastavere. Our favorite restaurant, that we visited twice, was just around the corner: Osteria delgli Amici https://www.osteriadegliamiciroma.it/. The dish I still dream about was Cicoria ripassata. It was almost creamy — something I still haven’t managed to produce at home! We were slightly less enamored on our second visit, but we figured it was circumstantial: we were leaving for home early the next morning, so we decided to eat “early” at 7. When we walked over, the door was open, but it was empty, and we were kindly informed that they didn’t open until 8. Silly Americans! We went back to eat, but we might not have been as receptive as we had the first time we’d been so delighted after randomly wandering in.
Wonderful post! As I was disappointed to discover during my recent trip in February, Santa Maria del Popolo is temporarily closed, so you couldn’t have seen those Caravaggios anyway!
Thank you for writing this — just all kinds of wonderful!! 26 years ago, my husband and I spent the last 4 days of our honeymoon in Rome (not nearly enough time there); we walked so much that, as soon as we arrived at the airport for our flight home, I tossed my deteriorating sandals in a trash bin.
I have a very similar one of my boys when they were 6 and 8 in front of an art museum in Sydney - an ambitious trip for us then but still a victory in my books; now they are 11 and 13 - we are definitely in that very sweet Golden Age of family travel.
I am saving all your Rome tips for a hopeful to-check-out list! Thank you for sharing your trip with us.
I always get the tomato pizza without cheese at Al Forno and yes, I have indeed dropped the delicious sauce on a brand-new raincoat.
We went to Rome in January and stayed at a hotel around the corner from Campo de' Fiori, so after dropping off our bags, famished, we waited in line for Forno to open up after their lunch break. That first bite of their tomato slice was the most satisfying bite of the entire trip! By the end of the trip we had definitely perfected the "pretend you're eating while standing over the kitchen sink" stance to avoid any tomato mishaps!
So be it! for pizza done right
That was a wonderful post. I always love your retelling of your trips, especially Urbino. Italian blood definitely runs in your veins.
I too love reading about your trips, and seeing the photos. We visited Rome in September of 2018 and stayed in an airbnb in Trastavere. Our favorite restaurant, that we visited twice, was just around the corner: Osteria delgli Amici https://www.osteriadegliamiciroma.it/. The dish I still dream about was Cicoria ripassata. It was almost creamy — something I still haven’t managed to produce at home! We were slightly less enamored on our second visit, but we figured it was circumstantial: we were leaving for home early the next morning, so we decided to eat “early” at 7. When we walked over, the door was open, but it was empty, and we were kindly informed that they didn’t open until 8. Silly Americans! We went back to eat, but we might not have been as receptive as we had the first time we’d been so delighted after randomly wandering in.
Wonderful post! As I was disappointed to discover during my recent trip in February, Santa Maria del Popolo is temporarily closed, so you couldn’t have seen those Caravaggios anyway!
Osteria Der Belli is our favorite p, along with the restaurant around the corner from Bar San Calisto. Great itinerary!
Thank you so much for this! We are taking our 3 kids to Italy in July. 3 days in Rome and then 6 days in Tuscany. I am printing this out! So helpful.
Thank you for writing this — just all kinds of wonderful!! 26 years ago, my husband and I spent the last 4 days of our honeymoon in Rome (not nearly enough time there); we walked so much that, as soon as we arrived at the airport for our flight home, I tossed my deteriorating sandals in a trash bin.
Your "Wrestlemania" photo is absolutely perfect.
I have a very similar one of my boys when they were 6 and 8 in front of an art museum in Sydney - an ambitious trip for us then but still a victory in my books; now they are 11 and 13 - we are definitely in that very sweet Golden Age of family travel.
I am saving all your Rome tips for a hopeful to-check-out list! Thank you for sharing your trip with us.
I love reading other people’s Rome itineraries. We love so many of the same places.
We will be first time visitors to Rome in early June; your itinerary is quite perfect. Thank you!
Lovely read. I'll keep so if I ever return
could spend hours in Roscioli having the boys cut plates of meats and cheeses to taste